Fabric & Craftsmanship 101: How to Spot Quality (and Why It Matters)

A clear guide to recognizing premium fabrics and construction—so your Zane Moretti pieces look better, last longer, and feel exceptional.

Why Quality Pays You Back

Premium fabrics drape better, breathe better, and age beautifully. Superior construction means fewer replacements and more wears. Quality is value—measured over years, not months.

Fabrics to Know

• Full-Grain Leather
  Highest grade; shows natural character and develops a rich patina. Look for tight grain, even dye, stitched (not glued) soles on footwear.

• Merino Wool
  Soft, resilient, temperature regulating. An ideal four-season knit; fine gauges layer cleanly under tailoring.

• Cashmere
  Lofty warmth with featherweight feel. Choose long-staple fibers to reduce pilling; tighter tension = better shape retention.

• Silk (16–22 momme)
  Balanced weight for durability and fluid drape. Sand-washed or matte finishes read modern and luxe.

• Fine Cotton (Egyptian or Supima)
  Long-staple fibers mean stronger yarns, smoother hand, and better colorfastness.

• Linen (European flax)
  Airy and strong with natural slub; blends with silk/cotton minimize wrinkle without losing charm.

Construction Details That Matter

• Tailoring: Half-canvas or full-canvas jackets keep shape; fused fronts can bubble over time.

• Seams: French seams for delicate fabrics; chain-stitch hem on denim; clean overlock finishes elsewhere.

• Buttons & Hardware: Real horn or corozo buttons, neatly shanked; zippers that run straight with even topstitching.

• Footwear: Goodyear or Blake construction; evenly skived edges; stacked leather heels; balanced last.

Fit: The Multiplier of Quality

Even the best fabric underwhelms if fit is off. Start with shoulders and seat (hardest to alter), then refine sleeve/hem length and waist suppression. A 15-minute tailoring session can add years of wear.

Care & Longevity

• Rotation: Let leather and knitwear rest between wears.

• Cleaning: Steam and spot clean; dry clean sparingly to protect fibers and interlinings.

• Storage: Cedar shoe trees, breathable garment bags, padded hangers for coats and blazers.

How We Build at Zane Moretti

Our pieces begin with fabric selection—merino for resilience, silks with balanced momme for drape, and full-grain leathers for depth and longevity. We prioritize clean internal finishing, durable stitching densities, and trims that patina rather than peel. The result: garments that feel luxurious on day one and better every year after.

Smart Buying Checklist

• Hand-feel: dense but supple; no scratchiness or limpness.

• Look inside: seam finishing, lining quality, spare buttons, and care labels.

• Ask for specs: fabric composition, weight, and construction method.

• Try the “three-way” test: Does it pair with three items you already own? Can it create three outfits? Will you wear it in three contexts?

Invest once, wear often. Discover the latest at Zane Moretti—crafted for longevity.